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Saint Helena, California, United States

Wednesday, January 11, 2012

Benton's BACON



Madisonville, Tennessee

Driving towards Nashville, Tennessee Laura and I were wondering out loud if there might be any fun stops on the way to Raleigh.  We both have a love of Bacon and other cured meats and quickly came to realize that Benton's might be on the way.  Living in the Napa Valley many area chefs utilize Benton's incredibly smoky bacon.  We've seen it featured at pig related events served in a Mason jar,  in fine restaurants resting atop freshly made biscuits with peach jam, and EVEN in a cocktail.  Laura ordered a Benton's Bacon Old Fashioned at the Patterson House in Nashville.  Bacon infused 4 Roses Bourbon is mixed with housemade coffee-pecan bitters, maple syrup and orange rind garnish.  DeeeeeeLICIOUS.




Our genuine interest in visiting Benton's turned into an obsession after that cocktail.  We arrived at the old-fashioned store and stood in line trying to figure out how much pork product we could possibly eat over the next few months.  We settled on the incredibly smoky and tasty fresh pork sausage (sold only in a cloth sack, only on site), five pounds of bacon trimmings ($10), two pounds of sliced country bacon ($12), four ounces of Prosciutto ($6), and two Pounds of thick cut smoked country ham.  In about five minutes our car would smell like a bbq pit.   
Before we left we were fortunate enough to get a tour of the place and learn more about how they make their products.  Their bacon is cured in salt and brown sugar for 10 days, then hung for seven days, before being smoked for a whopping THREE days!   99% of their bacon is smoked.  The country hams are a more time consuming process.  They are rubbed with the same cure for a couple weeks, before being hung in mesh netting for a MINIMUM of 9 months.  This is not your salty as all sin country ham that you can barely eat.  The hams have a nice mild salt taste similar to prosciutto and a great texture.  The country hams are available smoked or unsmoked, and are interestingly smoked for three days just like the bacon.  This leaves the country hams with a nice gentle smoke, whereas the bacon is a very intense smoke flavor.  Both are excellent in their own way.  We've made a delicious smoked sausage gravy for some homemade buttermilk biscuits to sop up with a poached egg on top, used the country ham to flavor kale braised in duck stock, and served Brussels sprouts roasted with the bacon, onion, rosemary, and a light red wine cream sauce.   If you are driving through Tennessee you have to stop by the store.  They are proud and welcoming to visitors and gave us a great tour.   The employee who gave us the tour said "Every high school kid in the town should come by here to see how it's done.  It's not rocket science, and every person should know how to cure their own meat just in case."  We couldn't agree more.  You can order some online here: http://bentonscountryhams2.com/


Cured Bacon Ready for the Smoker


Smoked Country Hams Aged for a Minimum of 9 months


At the checkout, this man has been running Benton's for over 30 years.

Sunday, January 1, 2012

American Barbecue Tour 2011 - Texas, Memphis, Raleigh

Laura, pit master at Salt Lick in Driftwood, Texas
  Let's talk about Deckel.  Our first Barbecue stop finds us just south of Austin in Driftwood, Texas.  Neither of us have ever had Texas BBQ before.  We head to Driftwood with a cooler packed full of beer since the Salt Lick is BYOB.   Why isn't all BBQ BYOB?  
Our group of 4, one toddler included is quickly seated in the massive 700 seat restaurant.  As we walk in our eyes fixate on the open firepit teeming with meat.  The Salt Lick is unique in both its open firepit which allows it to add more wood flavor, but also for its saucing method.  Most Texas BBQ sauces are tomato based, but the Salt Lick's sauce has a twist.  Original owner Thurman Roberts married his Japanese wife Hisako after some time in the military.  Her heritage led to a sauce without tomato and some pineapple juice.  This addition lets the meat get an incredible crust, without burning.  
We order "Family Style" which gets us a few forgettable sides and a never ending meat plate of smoked sausage, brisket, and ribs (beef and pork).  Our massive first plate arrives and the sausage steals the show.  The smoke is both sweet and powerful at the same time and the crisp snap of the casing yields to an incredibly juicy interior.  The ribs are tender but nothing special and the brisket has nice smoke but is like most backyard bbq a little chewy.  Our plate is only 3/4 gone before its whisked away with a steaming hot replacement.  We notice a big change in the second brisket.  This brisket has a nice bit of crust and the meat is not dry, but rich and fatty.  Our server comes back around a few minutes later and we ask for some more brisket; the fatty delicious stuff from the second batch.  He replies "Alright, alright so you want some burnt ends with the DECKEL attached."  Before we can even question he runs off and comes back with the beauty you see in that first picture.  Magic.  Crispy caramelized meat, juicy, warm beef fat melting in your mouth, smoke, it's the total package.  This is the holy grail of brisket.




Beef Brisket - Burnt Ends with DECKEL attached.







Salt Lick Firepit

Hickory with Pecan Wood Shavings thrown on



Texas BBQ - Smoked Sausage, Pork Ribs, Brisket

Salt Lick Kitchen at Work

First Taste of Memphis BBQ
I came into Memphis thinking it was all about the pig and that opinion has not changed.  The sides were better here noticeably the collards.  In the meat department the dry ribs were the clear winner and no other ribs on the trip really came close.  They were perfectly cooked with a nice amount of heat that complemented the pork.  The disappointment came with the pulled pork which was dry and overcooked. 

Coleslaw, Collards, Pulled Pork, Brisket, Pork Ribs 1/2 Dry, 1/2 Saucy

Carolina Cue
Welcome Home.  The Pit is one of my local favorites and it's still got it going on.  We braved the cold and sat outside avoiding the hour and a half wait.  If you ever eat cheese fries again in your life, this is your nirvana.  Gooey pimento cheese melted over crispy fried with juicy pulled pork these are a force to be reckoned with.  Great buttemilk biscuits too, but the ribs were a little undercooked.  The Pit is more upscale with the rest of their food and we enjoyed some good local brew and the best sides of the trip.  The "chopped' not pulled pork was easily the best of our trip.  The distinction is important as chopped "Cue" is cooked to a slightly lower temp and chopped with a cleaver rather than shredded.  The meat is just juicier.  Some tangy vinegar based sauce and hushpuppies sitting next to it is really all I need in my life, other than Laura. 

Delicious Apps - Pumpkin Cornbread with Maple Butter, Pimento Cheese & BBQ Fries, BLT Biscuits, Deviled Eggs

Creamy Slaw, Black Eyed P's, Biscuit & Hushpuppies, CHOPPED Pork Barbecue

Collards & Pork Ribs